We are eternally grateful for James Wilson Marshall’s discovery of gold on January 24,1848 at Sutter's Mill in Coloma Valley, near Sacramento, California. His find 169 years ago marked the beginning of the California Gold Rush, the largest mass migration in American history. Needless to say, gold is a staple for any jeweler and, in the spirit of this golden anniversary, we pulled together some answers to some FAQs about gold jewelry.
The “K” stands for karat, which represents the percentage of pure gold in the metal alloy. Because pure gold is very malleable, jewelers mix it with other alloys to make it more durable and harder.
Purity: The higher the karat number, the higher percentage of pure gold exists in the jewelry. 10K = 41.7% 14K = 58.5% 18K = 75% 22K = 91.7% 24K = 100%
Cost: The higher the karat, the higher the cost. Price is based on the percentage of pure gold. At Jewelry by Johan, our prices are based on the current market value of gold.
Color: Because pure gold is naturally yellow, the higher the karat, the more yellow the item will be.
Durability: The higher the karat, the softer and more scratch-prone the alloy becomes. This is important to consider if you’re setting a gemstone in small prongs that you don’t want to bend easily.
Developed to imitate platinum, white gold it is typically created by adding 25% nickel and zinc to pure gold. The lower the karat, the more “white” it will retain because the karat is increased by adding more pure, yellow gold. White gold rings are a lower-cost, lighter-weight alternative to platinum and palladium.
Gold jewelry is plated with rhodium to make it look whiter, enhance its shine, and to give it a harder surface. Keep in mind, the plating will wear away. It’s recommended to re-plate your jewelry every 1-2 years to keep it looking its best. Jewelry by Johan does not plate our white gold rings with rhodium, but will upon request.
When in doubt, the most accurate way to tell is to take your item to a jeweler for appraisal, but here are several tests you could do at home to help you determine if your gold is real.
Does it have a stamp? If it IS real gold, it will have one of the followings stamps (typically on its inner sleeve) that represents the percentage of gold it contains:
16, 417, 10ct, 10kt, 10K, 10KP = 10 Karat
583, 585, 14ct, 14kt, 14K, 14KP = 14 Karat
750, 18ct, 18kt, 18K, 18KP = 18 Karat
916, 917, 22ct, 22kt, 22K = 22 Karat 999, 24K = 24 Karat
Note: Lack of one of the above stamps doesn’t always mean your gold jewelry isn’t pure. For example, if a ring was resized, the stamp may have been polished out or removed.
And, not all jewelry designers add a stamp. If it IS NOT real gold, it will have one of these stamps alone or along with the karat information that pertains to the part of the item that is gold alloy: 1/20, 14/20 or GF = Gold-filled (Brass core with a surface of 5% gold alloy) GP = Gold-plated (Brass core with a thinner surface of .05% or less gold alloy) HGE = Hydrostatic gold electroplating GEP = Gold electroplating 925 = Sterling silver
Does it make a black streak on ceramic? If it is real gold, it will make a gold mark on unfinished ceramic. If it’s not, it will leave a black streak.
Is it heavy? If it is real gold, it will be heavier than a piece of non-gold jewelry that is of equal size.
Is it discolored? If the surface of the jewelry is tarnished or discolored, it’s less likely to be pure as this is not typical of most gold.
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